Adventures in Onionism

Not the best night sleep last night, NeoAir XLite just isn't wide enough for this tossing and turning side sleeper. However, had a nice morning. Got up and walked without breakfast until the sun was actually shining on us and we were near water. That happened to be in a gorgeous basin, so it worked out. One of the peaks looking over us looked like a wave in a rip curl, and Margo behaved herself while I cooked food, so worked out well.  We went over McGee Pass, and when we were out of the wind, I counted up the mileage and looked for another way over the Silver Divide so that I wouldn't have to use the JMT for so long, but all the passes (Shout of Relief, Bighorn, Warrior Ridge) mention talus, which I'm not sure Margo could handle. So the PCT it is. Also decided against a few extra miles of a simple loo down Cascade Valley on Fish Creek Trail and Minnow Creek Trail. Actual fatigue wasn't setting in yet, but decision fatigue was. Took the PCT/JMT south over Silver Pass, a

Normally about now I'd be pulling up at the Tahoe National Forest campground and falling asleep in the back of my car before Euchre Bar Massacre, but I just wasn't ready for it. Since UTMB and non-UTMR I've had too little  motivation, and too many work trips and house projects. Once I got back to Reno from DC, I was too tired to go to SoCal with Amy and George last weekend, so I waited a week and planned a backpacking trip with Margo. I didn't leave Reno until noon and still tried to pick up a few things on my way south, and traffic was bad, so I didn't start until around 6pm.  It's 8pm now, completely dark, and I have no intention of cooking tonight. My gear isn't dialed and that bothers me--pack seems too small, sleeping quilt too big, bummed a lighter off someone at the trailhead, I don't really like the tarp I brought, Margo won't stop licking my face, and her new dog bivy arrived literally minutes before I left this morning but she's being w

Here's my delayed report on UTMB. I finished UTMB this morning in 39 and a half hours. I feel OK but not ecstatic about that. [ My splits are here ] The race is a zoo at the start. There were literally no starting corrals, which seems like a massive oversight for a race of 2,500 or 3,000 people. There were a couple signs for people hoping to finish under 35 and under 30 hours, but I think there was no enforcement nor even encouragement to pay attention to these, and not nearly enough room for these people. Family and friends were not kept out of the starting area in any manner. The only chute was after the start, which means runners pass through quite a scream tunnel the entire way through town, and up into the first mountains.   The zoo start Zoo aid station Maybe all the way through the first neighboring town of Les Houches up and over Prarion, and down into St. Gervais, the cheering crowd was nuts. Certain stretches felt like the Tour de France. How long could this go on? (The

With the race basically cancelled, I took advantage of the gorgeous weather Friday and ran the ~30 miles from Grächen to Zermatt. I ran into several other runners from the race out doing their own thing. I stayed high along the Tour Monte Rosa/Europaweg, and it was gorgeous. A bunch of the trail is blasted into cliffs or requires stairs, bridges, or ropes. The valley itself was incredible, and that's without even considering the Matterhorn, which is so amazing it's hard to believe it's real.  Took the train and bus from Zermatt back up to Grächen and collapsed in bed after an excellent, exhausting day. The race director had organized a 50K for Saturday starting at 4AM. I saw most of the high parts of it on my own on Friday, and the other parts were running along gravel paths along the valley floor, so I had no interest in the race. Instead I enjoyed a leisurely morning coffee and pastries, and then headed around the corner into the Saas Valley. The only road to the valley i

UTMR was supposed to be 170km and start at 4AM Thursday. Then the weather at the pass and glacier crossing to Italy (Theodul Pass) was forecast to be too bad, so the race was delayed to Friday at 6:30AM (then 4AM) and rerouted to just be in the Zermatt and Saas valleys, and 132km. Just now, we've been told the Saas valley is cut off completely. The race is not starting Friday. It *might* start Saturday.  My flight home is Monday morning from Geneva. The weather is supposed to be good Friday and Saturday, bad again Sunday. A few of us in the race group accommodations might do the Zermatt out and back tomorrow (Friday).  What to do? This sucks. I'm glad I'm not a high elevation mountain climber--waiting out storms is a bitch.

I ran UTMB. It was fine. I'll write a report later. Afterwards, I cleaned up, cheered the final finishers, shouting "dae-han-min-guk" (대한민국) at the South Koreans, and got a veggie burger with Jan. I took a train to Vallorcine and then Martigny, Switzerland and stayed in a crappy hotel near the art museum. The next day I didn't go to the art museum because I don't really care for the impressionists or antique automobiles. I also didn't go to the St. Bernard dog breed museum because even though I love dogs, I don't particularly care for purebreds (even if St. Bernards seem pretty cool as far as breeds go). I sat at a cafe, but unfortunately outside is where everyone smokes rather than enjoying fresh air, so that's weird. I got a McVeggie at McDonald's because McDonald's piloted their US veggie burger in *Texas* and, surprise, it didn't do so well. It was decent as a crispy chicken sandwich substitute, but like all McDonald's sandwiches, i